Trading in the French Laundry’s country charm for New York’s urbane worldliness, you enter Per Se beside a replica of French Laundry’s famous blue doors (here you enter through sliding glass) and your dizzying expectations make your heart palpitate and your mouth water. Per Se is one of the ten best restaurants in the world. Which means on this night out of six billion or so people in the world perhaps a couple hundred are blessed to be eating in a restaurant of this caliber. The Monster considers himself lucky.
It’s a room that exudes both warmth and class. Huge floral arrangements, a fire flickering, the murmur of appreciative diners and the quiet flow of the servers. It’s not stuffy but it’s neither a party atmosphere.