On the Sunset Strip is LA’s famed Italian chef Celestino Drago’s latest, Osteria Drago. The space is a study in schizophrenia, classic Italian meets cheesy mod design. The service is pure LA, incredibly warm and inviting at one turn, slightly surly and off-putting at others. As for the menu, it is Italian of the moment meets greatest hits of the past, meaning you’ll find a salad with kale, one with beets, things like venison carpaccio and sea urchin panna cotta and lots of pastas and expensive meat and fish dishes.
The question is, does it all work?