Willie Jane takes over from the short-lived Wolf in Sheep’s Clothing on Abbot Kinney (which itself replaced the long-standing Lilley’s). The Monster heads in for brunch to check out Govind Armstrong’s latest (The Monster must herein admit he was an investor in Govind’s first LA eatery, Table 8).
The Monster must also admit he is not much of a brunch fan so perhaps this isn’t the best time to sample and review a restaurant’s worth. But he’s going to do it regardless. Sporting a menu mixing Southern, Caribbean and Cajun flavors the dinner menu has been the object of much debate because many of the dishes have to be ordered for at least four hungry people, leaving tables of two feeling like the best the restaurant has to offer is beyond their reach.
A cherry lime Rickey starts things off on the drinks front…gin, luxardo cherries, lime, simple syrup. It’s a bottom heavy drink that needs to be stirred to best enjoy and even then it proves okay but not much more. Perhaps the $15 bottomless mimosas is the way to go but then you’re probably get cheap, crap champagne and even crappier store bought OJ at most places.
What is great? The biscuit with burnt orange honey butter. Flaky on the outside, moist on the inside, this is one of the few occasions where The Monster uses butter. In fact, it might be the first time in years The Monster uses butter. It is that good.
But a menu featuring tons of egg dishes, tons of ham and tons of other breakfast-y things is never really going to appeal to this guy so ordering proves difficult once it is determined the fish dish on the menu is today being plated differently and doesn’t sound all that great.
So, The Monster audibles and gets the waffle with Bourbon glazed banana and spiced pecan butter. Once again, it has been years since he has had a waffle. Along with that some home fries.
And surprisingly The Monster enjoys it all. Not going to make him a convert to breakfast but for a change of pace it works. The waffle is decadent, the home fries satisfying and filling.
Would The Monster go back for brunch? Nope. Will he give it a shot at dinner? Yep.
Why go? Brunch is not your jam but dinner is.
Monster rating: 3½/5 Monsters
1031 Abbot Kinney Boulevard
Venice, CA 90291