REVIEW: CENTRAL

Last meal for The Monster on the Lima one day eating express is Central.  This hip bar and sophisticated restaurant hidden behind a door with no sign attracts the crème de la crème of Lima and an international clientele.  An argument can be made it is the number one restaurant in the city at the moment.

It’s a beautiful room filled with even more beautiful people. Glancing at the menu this may be an all-time classic, it’s both accessible and innovative and filled with Monster favorites.  As Nina Simone croons, the last (okay, there may be one or two more) Peruvian cocktails is happily coiffed.

Getting down to business, because The Monster is exhausted, here’s the good work for the evening:

Lines of scallops, tuna, cocona, sweet potato, Umami Sea.  The sashimi course falls a bit flat.  The fish is fresh but nothing about the taste wows.

Hot ceviche, langostinos, corvina, charcoal, araza.  Proves the existence of heaven.  Hyperbole perhaps?  Not a chance, it’s that good.

Charred purple corn-scented octopus, lentils, olives, sprout, scallions.  Coming off the high of the last dish this merits a notch less on the wow meter.  The octopus is perfectly presented, the sauce leaves a bit to be desired.

Roasted grouper, huamantanga potato, calamari, black quinoa, confit of greens.  Simple, flaky, delicious.

Lastly, some sweets as compliments from the house.

Service is exceptional.  Friendly and unobtrusive but exceedingly professional.  This is a serious restaurant where the entire oeuvre is tasked with reaching perfection.  As the final meal in Lima it is a fitting send-off from a country with wonderful sights, friendly people and seriously fantastic food.

Why go?  Nirvana is a day of eating at La Mar, Astrid Y Gaston and Central.

Monster rating: 4½/5 Monsters

Calle Santa Isabel 376 | Miraflores, Lima LIMA 18, Peru

511-242-8515

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Filed under Central (Lima Peru), Reviews

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