REVIEW: LE GRILL


Le Grill by celebrated chef Alain Ducasse is perched eight floors above Monte Carlo with a stunning view of the Mediterranean, the Grand Casino and the Metropole Hotel, home to Monaco’s other celebrity chef driven restaurant, that of Joel Robuchon.  From this view you are safeguarded from the cheeseballs doing circles around the main thoroughfare in their custom Lamborghini’s and convertible Bentleys.  The Monster would never be a cheeseball if he owned one of these automobiles.  😉

As per Europe’s other distinguished Michelin restaurants, the prices here are insanely high and The Monster is going to soon be dining out of dumpsters.  However, The Monster has been assured the dumpsters in Monaco feature one star Michelin refuse so there is that.


Mr. and Mrs. Monster sit on the terrace for a pre dinner drink and are wholly ignored by the single British gentleman dressed to the nines in blue blazer, red trousers, monogrammed shirt and ascot.  He looks like a photograph straight out of Ralph Lauren ad and is insanely dapper.  The Monster peers at his ensemble and realizes he’s more than a step behind.

The servers bring out some canapés.  Oily potato chips that may very well be Pringles, bread topped with sweet peppers and some foul cream filled pastry The Monster refuses to even pick up.  Eh.  Not impressed.  And the drink ordered (a Pimm’s Cup, perhaps a mistake given we’re essentially in France) is served half filled and poorly made.  The older British gentleman has the good sense to order champagne.  Damn him for besting The Monster twice.

Once seated by the windows it’s a stately room done up in shades of blue with a retractable roof for lovely evenings.  When the roof opens you are truly dining beneath the stars.  There are more tuxedoed men running around than customers.  And it’s not even close.  Four to one?

An Amuse bouche of crumbled vegetables is quickly on offer.  A tad pickled, this is surprisingly delightful while elegantly simple.  Sometimes the best tasting foods allow the natural flavors to shine.  Kudos.

The main courses are a linguine with clams, calamaretti, and lobster in a Genovese pesto and the fish special of the day served over vegetables.

Both dishes are highly proficient, highly boring affairs that could have been served anywhere in the world

The potatoes, essentially potato chips blown into delicate spheres are a total miss but luckily cost the same as a plane ticket to Europe.

On a whole this is expensive dining without the wow factor.  While view and service may be exemplary last time The Monster checked he couldn’t eat either.  No profiteroles are offered for dessert leaving a little taste of displeasure in The Monster’s mouth as he leaves.

All that being said, the taxi taken from the hotel may be the coolest ever.  The taxi and the driver get 5/5 Monstres.

Why go?  You wear an ascot well.

Monster rating: 3/5 Monstres

Hotel du Paris, Place du Casino

98000 Monte Carlo, Monaco


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Filed under Le Grill (Monte Carlo), Reviews

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